How to make a cyanotype negative from a photo
- Add a photo and choose the print size. The negative is made at exactly that size.
- Adjust the tones while watching the cyanotype preview: contrast for punch, midtones to open up shadows or deepen highlights.
- Download the PDF and print it on inkjet transparency film at 100%, best quality, ink on the rough side.
- Expose with the film ink side down on your coated, dry paper under glass, in sun or a UV lamp, then rinse.
Why the negative looks the way it does
- Inverted: cyanotype paper turns blue where UV light gets through. Light parts of your photo need dense ink on the film; dark parts need clear film.
- Black and white: only the amount of ink matters, so colour is removed.
- Mirrored: the ink side touches the paper for the sharpest contact, so the negative is flipped to read correctly in the print.
Calibrating with the 21-step tablet
The strip under the negative goes from clear film (0) to full ink (100) in 5% steps. After printing and exposing it with your negative:
| What you see on the print | What to change |
|---|---|
| Many steps at the clear end are the same full blue | Shadows will block up: move midtones towards “lighter”, or reduce exposure |
| Steps near 100 are not white | Not enough ink density: use a better print setting or add contrast; or shorten exposure |
| All steps are pale | Under-exposed: expose longer |
Write down the settings that work for your printer, film and sun or lamp; they will work for every photo after that. For other processes, see the digital negative maker.
Frequently asked questions
What do I print the negative on?
Inkjet transparency film (sometimes sold as “OHP film for inkjet” or “digital negative film”). Print on the rough, coated side, at the highest quality setting, at 100% size. Laser transparencies work for strong, simple images.
Why is the negative mirrored?
The printed side of the film should touch the cyanotype paper for the sharpest result. Mirroring the negative means the image reads the right way round when the film is placed ink side down.
How do I use the 21-step tablet?
Expose it together with your negative. In the finished print, look for the first step that is pure white and the last step that is still distinguishable from full blue. If the shadows block up, raise the midtones slider; if highlights are muddy, add contrast or exposure time. Your printer, film and chemistry each need slightly different settings.
Why does my print look flat?
Cyanotype needs a negative with a long tonal range. Increase contrast, check that your printer is printing a dense black (use a photo or premium setting), and expose until the clear areas reach full deep blue.
Are my photos uploaded?
No. Everything happens in your browser, so your photos never leave your device.
Last updated 2026-10-24.